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Before we delve into the interworking of pre-wound embroidery bobbins, I would like to share a fantastic animation of exactly how a loop stitch and a lock stitch are formed by the needle, bobbin case and rotary hook. Knowing how to embroiderer is one thing but knowing how the machine efficiently forms embroidery is another. Many times an embroidery machine will get bound up in the middle of a rush order or a large piece project and there is no time to call your friendly embroidery technician. This little nugget of embroidery gold will help you to really know what goes on under the needle plate. Follow this link to Howstuffworks.com and bookmark it. Show it to every embroiderer you know. http://home.howstuffworks.com/sewing-machine1.htm#

Styles of pre-wound embroidery bobbins are yet another choice the embroidery professional is expected to glean from some magical all knowing embroidery information stash in the sky. Many embroiderers see the difference in price and go the cost effective route, not knowing the characteristics of these to seemingly similar products. To avoid the confusion and possibly save some embroidery headaches here is the breakdown from the supplier perspective.

The first thing in determining what type of bobbin you need is matching size requirements for the hook area under the needle plate. Most styles of pre-wound bobbin threads (A.K.A. bottom thread) will work in machines that operate with L or M size embroidery bobbin. To determine if you have L size or M size bobbins in your machine compare your bobbin case to a Quarter and a Nickel. If the quarter appears to fit inside your bobbin case then you have an embroidery machine in need of M size bobbins (most likely a brother or Tajima commercial embroidery machine). If the bobbin case to Nickel comparison is a match, your machine calls for L size embroidery bobbins (this is most commercial embroidery machines and some home embroidery machines).
Typically white bobbin thread is considered the standard but black bobbin thread is often used and there are various colors available for matching bobbin thread to top thread colors. www.BuyEmbroiderySupplies.com has 2 types of white pre-wound embroidery bobbin thread.
• Continuous polyester filament embroidery thread -Soft, lightweight, and lint free, this continuous filament polyester thread is the ideal for pre-wound bobbins. It doesn’t add bulk, creating a smooth bottom thread for designs. At size 70 it is fine, yet strong. Plus, more thread can be wound on the bobbin. This bobbin thread is considered the standard for embroidery bobbins and allows for a fast, consistent, uniform final stitch.
• Spun polyester embroidery thread - Spun polyester threads are made by spinning or twisting together short, thin lengths of continuous filament polyester fibers like the polyester pillow filler. This process is similar to the way cotton threads are manufactured. A spun polyester thread gives the look of a cotton thread, but it provides superior strength and durability.
Continuous filament and spun polyester embroidery bobbins are wound and packaged as sideless , cardboard sided, plastic sided, magnetic, and the ever mysterious coreless sideless pre-wound embroidery bobbin.

• Cardboard sided embroidery bobbins- These are the industry standard for their consistency and quality. Cardboard sided bobbins have a natural friction in the bobbin case, which can help prevent backlashes. (Works with bobbin case which include a no backlash spring and bobbin cases without the no backlash spring)

(This is a bobbin case without a “No backlash spring”)

(This is a “No backlash spring”)

The no backlash spring fits inside some styles of bobbin case. It applies pressure on the embroidery bobbin to slow or stop the over spinning of the bobbin when the loop or lock stitch is made by the rotary hook. This prevents backlash or wadding, in the rotary hook, of the bobbin thread.
• Plastic sided embroidery bobbins – These embroidery bobbins can sometimes be wound with a few more yards of thread. They tend to have less friction in the bobbin case which means plastic sided bobbins have a higher tendency to backlashes without a no backlash spring in the bobbin case. If over wound with bobbin thread by the manufacturer, the fragile plastic sides will develop hairline cracks. Most times these crack do not harm anything, however always check all purchased plastic sided bobbins as if they were eggs in a carton. On rare occasions they have been known to chip or break in shipping.
• Magnetic core embroidery bobbins – These bobbins are considered sideless, plastic core embroidery bobbins. They have a magnetic ring around one end of the core that is designed to consistently pull against the metal bobbin case to provide friction that avoids backlash. Magnetic core bobbins do not work with a no backlash spring, so if you are changing to these bobbins be sure to remove the spring by popping it out of the bobbin case if it’s present.
• Coreless sideless embroidery bobbins – These bobbins do not have sides or cores like the above mentioned bobbins. The embroidery bobbin thread used for manufacturing this type product has a tendency to be waxier. Typically least expensive, coreless sideless bobbins can save money per unit. However the time and aerosol products it takes to constantly clean the bobbin case and rotary hook to keep the embroidery machine spinning at 500-900 stitches per minute will make the extra $5-$10 a box worth it.

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