GUIDE TO SELECTING THE RIGHT NEEDLE

by Cliff Border

The Organ Needle Company works closely with some of the leading machine makers such as Tajima and Barudan. In this way, they have matched their expertise as the world’s largest needle maker, and the particular needs of each machine builder. Realizing a machine is only as good as the needle in it, each machine maker wants to be sure to have the right needle design to enhance the performance of their machine. We carry the largest variety of embroidery needles for embroidery machines. While no one can prescribe a specific needle for any situation, we hope to explain the features of those we carry. With reasonable knowledge of the available needles, any operator can make educated decisions to deal with any embroidery task.

16×257: This is the standard sewing machine needle that other needle makers offer for Tajima and similar embroidery machines. It was originally designed for high speed sewing machines and does fine for that purpose.

DB-K5: This needle is virtually the same as 16×257 but has a significant feature designed especially for embroidery machines such as Tajima. The DB-K5 needle has a one size larger eye than that found in a 16×257 needle. For example, a DB-K5 size 10/70 needle has an eye which is at least as large as the eye in a 16×257 size 12/80. Unlike
sewing thread used for general apparel sewing, embroidery threads are ”fluffier” and have less tensile strength. A larger needle eye, without increased blade diameter, allows the embroidery thread to pass easily through the needle’s eye without fraying or snapping.

DBxK5Z1: This is a modified version of the DB-K5 needle. It has a side scarf, long extended groove, longer deeper
scarf and slim Xtra Light Ballpoint. The side scarf allows less interference between the needle and the rotary hook.

The long extended groove provides more protection to the top thread. The longer deeper scarf allows the hook point to be adjusted closer to the center of the thread loop and allows for variations in registration from one needle position to the next. The slim point reduces penetration resistance for smoother piercing of the material. This all adds up to smoother, sharper embroidery.
BALL POINT: Ball Point needles are designed to alleviate making holes in knit or loosely woven materials. The cross fibers which constitute the knit or loosely woven materials are relatively far apart as compared to those in tightly woven materials. When a needle with a standard ”set” or “sharp” point encounters one of those fibers in
penetrating the fabric, it cuts right through the fiber. This creates a hole in the fabric. The Ball Point needle pushes aside the fiber it encounters in penetration and thereby avoids making a damaging hole in the fabric. (It is also recommended to use the thinnest possible needle for a particular fabric).
DB-K5kk (Short Shank): The short shank needles are intended for use in machines with raised needle hole
throat plates like in ZSK and Singer KSM models. They are also used to allow more needle penetration in very thick materials thus avoiding “shanking.” CAUTION: With a shorter shank length the needle blade has less support and is prone to deflect more than regular needles. When using short shank needles, the use of a thicker size may be required to avoid excessive needle breakage.

DBx9ST: This needle is intended for some extreme situations which have thicker than usual embroidery threads and do not allow you to increase the needle thickness. The eye of a DBx9ST needle is at least two (2) sizes larger than
ordinarily found in a given size needle. For instance, a DBx9ST size 9/65 has an eye of at least the size found in a
16×257 size 12/80.
DBx7ST: The eye of the DBx7ST is designed particularly for metallic type embroidery threads. The eye of this needle is shaped like a rectangle. The special eye design facilitates the passage of metallic threads through the needle’s eye.
DB-K5SS: The DB-K5SS needle has all the eye features of the DB-K5, but the point has a very narrow wedge to make
penetration through leather, vinyl and similar materials easier and neater. A standard “set” or “sharp” point needle punches its way through leather like materials which may make irregularly or undesirably shaped needle holes. The very narrow wedge point “slices” through the leather like materials while making a cleanly cut needle hole.
Other available wedge point needles typically have longer wedges than the DB-K5SS needles. That’s fine for most
sewing operations, but in embroidering, the stitches are very close together. The longer wedge point needles will actually punch out the design created by the close pattern of embroidered stitches. The extra narrow wedge point of the DBK5SS leaves enough distance between stitches in embroidered patterns to maintain the strength of the leather like material and avoid punching out the embroidered design.
DB-K5SD1: This needle has all of the features of the DBK5 sharp point needle with the addition of a small triangular
tip and a titanium (PD) finish. This very small triangular tip improves the penetration of hard materials like leather, for smoother stitching.

COOL-SEW: The COOL-SEW finish on needles creates a “non-stick” surface on the needle and inside the needle’s eye. It is intended to alleviate many problems that arise from using synthetic threads and synthetic materials. Synthetics usually ”stick” to the needle surfaces to some degree, more or less. These problems may also be found with certain chemically treated or dyed fabrics.

As synthetic threads pass through the eye of a needle, they create friction and heat which may melt or snap threads. In some cases, the eye of the needle may be cut. The COOLSEW finished needle eye acts as if eye is lubricated and
thereby alleviates the aforementioned problems. As an ordinary chromium plated needle penetrates through
synthetic materials, the materials may stick to the needle. This may cause some of the synthetic materials to pass
through the needle holes and create undesirable finishes. The sticking to the surface of the needle may also create
heat-buildup problems such as melting and machine jamups. The COOL-SEW finish on the needle helps alleviate the
sticking and heat-buildup problems.
PD (Perfect Durability): PD needles have a titanium-nitride ceramic finish which makes them more wear-resistant than any other needles. When embroidering large stitch patterns or penetrating very abrasive, dense or tough materials the needle points and surface will maintain its original shape and dimensions 3 to 5 times longer. PD needle points will not wear down as fast as chromium plated needle points. The use of PD needles gives you longer needle life, fewer defects due to “dulled” needle points, and increased productivity.

ny series: Tapered blade ny needles strengthen needles to resist pressure from all directions. A thinner size ny needle can perform with the strength of a thicker size needle without excessive needle breakage, fabric damage or needle holes. A comparison of strength: ordinary & ny needles 287WKH: This was the first needle made specifically for embroidery machines. It is a 16×257 needle with a larger eye and the point shortened so that it will not drag across the previous embroidery when laying down a second or third layer of stitches.

For: FINE KNITS
DBx1KN: This is a modified version of the 16×257 needle specifically for sewing thin knit fabrics. It has a slender,
straight blade with a longer, tapered Thin Ball point and a revised profile around the eye. The slender, straight blade
acts the same as using a one size thinner needle with a consistent slim shape. The longer taper of the needle point
reduces the penetration resistance in fabrics to minimize needle holes. The profile around the eye is reduced, to avoid the extra penetration resistance the normal bulge causes. DBxK23: This is the large eye version of the DBx1KN. The area of the eye is increased approximately 25% to accommodate heavier, thicker or “fluffier” threads with less stress in an embroidery application.
DF-M20: This needle has all of the features of the DBx1KN needle with the addition of a flat shank and a longer scarf. It is made specifically for the Tajima Hem-Stitching machine.

FLAT SHANK NEEDLES

15×1: HAx1, 130/705H, SY2020, SY2031, 206×15, PFx130, canu 22:15; This is the standard needle with a
flat shank and a regular size eye for most home sewing machines and home sewer based embroidery and quilting
machines. It is widely available in a large range of sizes with a sharp or ball point, also available with PD/titanium
finish.

15×1 SP: HAx1 SP; This is a special version of the 15×1 for stretch or elastic materials and tightly woven knits. It
is made to higher standards, it has a snake’s head shape due to a combination of a slightly bulged eye and a slightly
reduced blade above the eye. The bulged eye opens a slightly larger space in the material and the thinner blade above the eye reduces contact between the material and the needle. This reduces needle heat-up and prevents skip stitches. It is also available in a light ball point to separate the fibers rather than cutting them, avoiding needle holes in the fabric.
15×1 ST: HAx1 ST, 705H-E; This is a special version of the 15×1 for embroidery and decorative stitching. It is
made to higher standards for longer life. It has an oversized eye to reduce stress and tension on the thread. It also
accommodates metallic threads or heavier top stitching threads and makes needle threading easier. It is available
in sharp or ball point, also available with PD/titanium finish.

HAx130EBBR: This NEW needle was developed for use in the new Babylock EMB6 and Brother PR-600C
machines. It is an industrial quality needle with a flat shank, reinforced blade, light Ball Point and an oversized eye. It is available with a hard chrome finish. ELx705: This needle is made specifically for cover stitching. It has 2 grooves, a slightly longer scarf and a light ball point.
15×2: HAx2, HAx1LL, 130LR; This is the leather point needle with a flat shank. It has all of the same features as
15×1 with the addition of a lens shaped point to cut through leather and other heavy materials. Caution must be used when changing to this needle. Extra space must be left between needle penetrations to avoid ‘cutting out’ the
design.
HLx5: This needle is made for sewing hard, thick or heavy materials. It will sew through multiple ply applications like quilting, jeans, applique or heavy embroidery. It is actually an industrial needle with a flat shank. If you are
bending or breaking 15×1’s this needle could solve your problem. These hard chrome needles will outlast a
standard 15×1 and the PD/titanium needles are even more wear-resistant. They are available in either sharp or ball
point with a hard chrome or PD/titanium finish.
Hints & Tips: High quality embroidery is a delicate balance.

Remember when you change:
Ø The needle size or the eye size of the needle, you are changing the tension on the top thread.
Ø The needle size you are changing the relationship of the needle scarf to the hook point.
Ø The needle point you are changing the way the needle penetrates the fabric. This is not just about needles! When you change thread, backing, brand of blank product or even digitizers you may also affect the balance.

If you are a home embroiderer, chances are your machine requires some different supplies than commercial embroidery machines, and this can be confusing when trying to purchase supplies online. In this article, I’m going to try and help you figure out exactly what embroidery supplies your home embroidery machine needs.

Here is a list of some of the most common home embroidery machines:

Bernina, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki, Melco, Necchi, Baby Lock, New Home, Pfaff, Poem, Riccar, Simplicity, Singer, Viking, White, and others.

Home Embroidery Needles A.K.A Flat Shank Needles are the needles you need to look for if you are using a home embroidery machine. These needles have a flat side ground on the shank to assure proper alignment with the point of the hook (these flat shank needles can only be used on machines designed for flat shank needles). Here is a list of acceptable needles that you can use on your home embroidery machine:

Organ 15×1 HAx1 BP PD Ball Point Titanium Flat Shank Needles -This is the standard needle in Titanium finish with a flat shank and a regular size eye for most home sewing machines and home sewer based embroidery and quilting machines. It is widely available in a large range of sizes. The titanium finish makes the needle last 4 to 5 time longer than regular or chrome finish needles.

Organ 15×1 HAx1 PD Sharp Point Titanium Flat Shank Needles – Similar to the Ball Point needle above, this is the sharp point version.

Organ HAx130EBBR – This NEW needle was developed for use in the new Babylock EMB6 and Brother PR-600C
machines. It is an industrial quality needle with a flat shank, reinforced blade, light Ball Point and an oversized eye. It is available with a hard chrome finish. Available in several sizes.

Organ 15×1 Hax1 Flat Shank Ball Point Needles – This is the standard needle in Chrome finish with a flat shank and a regular size eye for most home sewing machines and home sewer based embroidery and quilting machines. It is widely available in a large range of sizes.

Organ 15×1 HAx1 Flat Shank Sharp Point Needles – Similar to the Ball Point needle above, this is the sharp point version. Available in several sizes.

Organ 15×1 ST BP PD Flat Shank Large Eye Ball Point Titanium Needles -This is a special version of the 15×1 for embroidery and decorative stitching. It is made to higher standards for longer life. It has an oversized
eye to reduce stress and tension on the thread. It also accommodates metallic threads or heavier top stitching
threads and makes needle threading easier. Available in several sizes.

Organ 15×1 ST PD Flat Shank Large Eye Sharp Point Titanium Needles – Similar to the Ball Point needle above, this is the sharp point version. Available in several sizes.

Too help select the size and point of the home embroidery needle you need, please reference the chart below.

Size, which is the middle column, is a representation of European and US sizes. The right side, or lower number, is the US size and more than likely the size you will need to reference.

This concludes Part 1 on Home Embroidery Needles for Home Embroidery Machines.

Please visit our Home Embroidery Supplies website: www.BuyEmbroiderySupplies.com

Leonardo Da Vinci

(Designer of one the first needle Point-grinding machines)

In the beginning…

It is a little known fact that the needle was one of human kind’s first tools. Over the centuries it developed from a simple craft item to the precision tool for modern sewing machines, constantly adapted for new industrial applications and requirements. The use of sewing today does not stop at garments and furnishings, but is equally important for car seats and airbags meeting high technical safety standards. The needle has played a major role in the development of our civilization and our standard of living.

Ancient sewing needles , which date back to 28,000 BC, did not have an eye but a split end which gripped the thread to be sewn (often raffia, gut or sinew). Needles from later than 17,500 BC already had two features characteristic of the hand sewing needle today. The eye at one end and the tapering point at the other end. They were made from materials available to human society at the time, for example bones and antlers.

As people acquired skills in working metal materials, needles were also made from metal (Bronze Age approx. 7000BC), first from copper, later from iron or bronze. Although there is no positive evidence as to the precise design of these needles , excellent pieces of embroidery from the pre-Christian era suggest that they were probably fashioned almost to perfection. Unfortunately   the articles made with these needles were only partially preserved and there are barely any traces of the needles themselves. This is largely explained by the effect of oxidation, which destroys the metallic needles after a short time. Even the needles found from the 19^th century are rarely found intact.

The invention of the sewing machine gave rise to the development of the sewing machine needles.

The basic form of the hand sewing needle remained the same, thought the degree of tapering and the variation of the diameter over the length of the needle were slightly altered over the course of time. In order to be able to make comparisons, one must study the needle from its very point to just below the eye. Al though the eye and point have moved closer together, as the basic functional elements of the needle, they remain unaltered.

In 1755 a German named Weisenthal thought he had found the prerequisite for a machine sewing in his development of a two-point needle. This needle form was also used later on by Madersperger and others and it is even used nowadays in modern industrial machines for sewing shank buttons or imitating hand –made seams. An Englishman called Saint, for his machine designed in 1790, used a so-called hook needle or protruding needle similar to today’s single-chain, drop-stitch embroidery (Cornely), saddle-stitch and linking machines. Both types of needles however were of little importance for further development of the sewing machine needle.

Around 1800, Balthasar Krems (Mayen, Germany) used, for the first time, a needle which had an eye moved close to the point. One should particularly appreciate this invention because one feature that looks so simple to us today was a sensation at that time. This eye-point needle paved the way for the mechanism of sewing world-wide. Since then the sewing machine needle has been developed to the form known today. The needle has accomplished its transition from hand tool to the precision tool of the sewing machine needle.

The sewing machine needle is made up of various basic elements which are constantly arranged and rearranged in new needle designs to suit the many fields of application. These basic elements are the needle shank, the needle blade with one or two grooves and the needle point with eye.

Numerous ways in which these can be combined result in the very comprehensive selection of embroidery and sewing machine needles available today.

Needles specific to embroidery…

The start of clear embroidery design registration starts with a high quality embroidery needle. The 3 major commercial embroidery needles manufacturers competing for your business are Schmetz, Organ, and Groz-Beckert. I believe embroiderers as a whole will be satisfied with any of these commercial embroidery needles. That being said there are some differences you should be educated on concerning the basic manufacturing process for chrome embroidery needles. Keep in mind titanium (yellow in color) coated commercial embroidery needles and Teflon coated (greenish or dull grey) commercial embroidery needles have an extra process applied to a chrome embroidery needle. Also there is a difference between;

• Flat shank embroidery needle (typical of a single needle home embroidery machine)
• Round shank commercial embroidery needle (typical of a multi-needle commercial embroidery machine).

Prior to purchasing new embroidery needles find out if the model of your embroidery machine is designed for flat shank embroidery needles. There are some hybrid embroidery machines on the market that are sold as commercial embroidery machines and use a flat shank needle (brother pr600). Knowing this information prior to buying embroidery supplies will stop ordering headaches in the future.